Buying a used electric car: the checklist before you sign
Oct 14, 2026
10 min read
Buying a used electric car is a lot like buying any used car. You still check the logbook, the service history and the tyres. There are just three extra things to look at: the battery, the charging kit and how much warranty is left.
TL;DR
- Ask for an independent battery health report. It tells you far more about the battery than the mileage does.
- Many used electric cars are still covered by their manufacturer battery warranty. Check how long it has left, how many miles it covers and whether it gets transferred to you as the new owner.
- Check whether the charging cables come with the car and make sure the charge port works properly.
- Check the V5C logbook, MOT history and service history, just as you would for a petrol or diesel car.
- Buying from a dealer or bigger organisation gives you more legal protection than buying privately if something goes wrong.
What do you need from a used EV? Work it out before you look
If you’re switching from petrol to electric, before you look at a single car, answer two questions. How far do you drive in a normal week? And where will you charge?
Your answers tell you how much range you really need. Do you need 300 miles of range for a 20-mile commute? Probably not. If you can charge at home and mostly do local trips, a smaller, cheaper electric car could suit you fine.
When you compare cars, use the real-world range: how far the car actually goes on a charge in everyday driving. It's lower than the official figure in the brochure, and it drops further in cold weather, so leave yourself some leeway. Our guide to EV range explains what to expect.
How do you check a used EV's battery health?
Ask for a battery health report, which shows the battery's condition as a percentage. Then check how much of the manufacturer's battery warranty is left. Together, those two things tell you most of what you need to know about the battery.
If the battery is your biggest worry, you're not alone. In our YouGov survey, 45% of people said battery safety and lifespan was a concern. You can find out how long batteries typically last in our battery guide. Here, we'll focus on checking the battery in the car in front of you.
What is battery state of health?
State of health is how much energy a battery can hold now, as a percentage of what it could hold when it was new. A battery at 90% gives you roughly 90% of the range the car had when it left the factory. It's the most important number on a battery health report.
What's a good battery health score?
It depends on the car's age. Battery testing firm Generational tested over 8,000 batteries for its 2025 Battery Performance Index, published on 18th February 2026. It found that even a typical eight to nine-year-old car still had about 85% battery health, but a younger car should usually score higher.
Mileage on its own won't tell you much. The same study found cars with more than 100,000 miles often still scored between 88% and 95%. That's why the battery report matters more than the number on the odometer.
How to check the battery when you view a car
- Ask for an independent battery health report. Many dealers can provide one, and some include it as standard.
- Check when the report was done. A recent report is more useful than an old one.
- Look at the range the car shows on a full or nearly full charge, and compare it with the real-world range for that model. It's only a rough guide, because the figure on the dashboard is based on how the car was driven recently.
How much battery warranty is left?
Most new electric car batteries come with a warranty of around eight years and 100,000 miles, so a car that's only a few years old is likely to still be covered. Terms vary between manufacturers, so check four things:
- When the warranty started. It usually runs from the date the car was first registered, not the date you buy it.
- The mileage limit, and how close the car is to it.
- Whether it guarantees a minimum battery health, and what happens if the battery drops below it.
- Whether the warranty moves to you as the new owner.
Is the battery leased?
Some older electric cars were sold with the battery leased separately. The owner bought the car but kept paying a monthly fee for the battery. If you're looking at an older model, check the paperwork, because that monthly fee becomes yours to pay when you buy the car.
What to look for when buying a used electric car: your checklist
Take this list with you when you view a car, or work through it before you order one online. Most of it is the same as buying any used car. The battery and charging checks are the extra bits.
| Check | What to look for | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
V5C logbook | The seller's name and address match the logbook, and the vehicle identification number (VIN) matches the car | Confirms the seller has the right to sell it |
MOT history | Past failures and warnings (called advisories) on the free MOT history checker | Also shows past mileage readings. Cars under three years old won't have had an MOT yet |
Service history | Serviced on time, as the manufacturer recommends | Electric cars still need regular servicing, and missed services can affect the warranty |
Outstanding finance | A private history check | Shows whether the seller still owes money on the car, which could cause problems for you later |
Recalls | The free vehicle recall check | Makes sure any safety fixes from the manufacturer have been done |
Battery health report | State of health as a percentage, and when the report was done | The best guide to the battery's condition |
Battery warranty | Years and miles left, any minimum battery health, and whether it transfers to you | The battery is the most expensive part of the car |
Charging cables | A Type 2 cable at least (the standard plug for home and public chargers). A cable for a normal three-pin socket is a bonus | Replacements aren't cheap |
Charge port | The flap, pins and lock all work, and the car can use rapid chargers | Some older or cheaper electric cars charge slowly on rapid chargers or can't use them at all |
Tyres | Tread depth, even wear, and the type the maker recommends | Same check as any car |
Brakes | Discs and pads in good condition | Same check as any car |
Software and apps | Software is up to date, and the previous owner has been removed from the car's app | So the previous owner can't track or unlock the car |
Heat pump | Whether one is fitted | A heat pump warms the car using less energy, which can help it hold on to more range in winter |
Test drive or return window | No warning lights, no odd noises, and the battery percentage drops as you'd expect. If you're buying online, check how long you have to return the car | Electric cars are quiet, so unusual noises stand out |
What will a used EV cost to tax, charge and insure?
Road tax on a used electric car depends on when it was first registered. Charging costs depend on where you plug in. Here's what to budget for.
Road tax depends on when the car was registered
Electric cars have paid road tax since April 2025. How much depends on when the car was first registered:
- Between 1st March 2001 and 31st March 2017: £20 a year.
- Between 1st April 2017 and 31st March 2025: £200 a year.
- On or after 1st April 2025: £10 in the first year, then £200 a year.
There's one catch with newer cars. If an electric car was registered on or after 1st April 2025 and cost more than £50,000 when new, you'll pay an extra £440 a year for five years, starting from its second year of tax. It's based on the original price before any discounts, not what you pay second-hand. So a car you buy for well under £50,000 could still carry the extra charge. Check its original price before you buy.
Charging costs depend on where you plug in
Charging at home is usually much cheaper than using public chargers. Part of the gap is tax. In Great Britain, VAT on home electricity is 0% until 31st March 2027, while public charging is charged at 20%.
If you can't charge at home, a public charging app makes life easier. Octopus Electroverse lets you use most charging networks through one app.
Insurance
Get a quote for the exact car before you commit, because premiums vary a lot between models. As with any car, the age of the car will affect how much you pay for insurance.
Should you buy from a dealer or a private seller?
A dealer usually costs a bit more, but you get stronger legal protection, and often a warranty and a battery report too. By law, a car from a dealer must be of satisfactory quality, fit for purpose and as described. Buy privately and you'll have little comeback if something goes wrong.
That's worth thinking about. 36% of people in our YouGov survey said repair costs were a worry, and a warranty is what stands between you and an unexpected bill.
| Dealer | Private seller | |
|---|---|---|
Inspection | Usually checked and prepared before sale | Sold as it is |
Warranty | Often included | Rarely included |
Battery report | Often available | You'll usually need to arrange one |
Legal protection | Covered by consumer law | Limited |
Price | Can be a little higher | Can be a little lower |
Whichever you choose, work through the checklist above before you hand over any money.
Buying a used electric car through our partner, car360
Want a used electric car without doing all the legwork yourself? You can buy one through our partner car360, the UK's largest used-EV specialists.
Several of the checks above are done for you:
- The battery. Every car comes with an independent battery health report from AVILOO or ClearWatt, with a score out of 100 that you can see on the car's page before you buy.
- The condition. car360 inspects, services and prepares each car before it's sold.
- The warranty. You get a minimum three-month warranty, or the rest of the manufacturer's warranty if that's longer. You can extend your cover if you'd like more.
- Delivery and returns. Cars are delivered to your door in as little as three days, from £149. You can't test drive before you buy, as car360's centre is for collections only. Instead, you get a 7-day money back guarantee, so you can live with the car for a week and return it if it's not right.
- Your old car. You can part exchange your petrol or diesel car through car360.
Rather not buy? You can also lease an approved used EV from us, with servicing and maintenance included in the monthly price.
Common questions
What battery health should a used EV have?
It depends on the car's age. A 2025 study by battery testing firm Generational found that a typical eight to nine-year-old electric car still had about 85% battery health, so a younger car should usually score higher. Ask for an independent battery health report, and check how much of the battery warranty is left.
Does an EV battery warranty transfer to a new owner?
Often, yes. Battery warranties usually run from the date the car was first registered and stay with the car, but terms vary between manufacturers. Check the warranty documents or ask the manufacturer before you buy, and find out how many years and miles of cover are left.
Does high mileage matter on a used electric car?
Less than you might think. A 2025 study by Generational found electric cars with more than 100,000 miles often still had battery health between 88% and 95%. Mileage on its own isn't a reliable guide, so check the battery report and service history rather than judging on the odometer alone.
Can you get a grant for a used electric car?
No. The government's Electric Car Grant only applies to some new electric cars, and the seller takes it off the price for you. There's no equivalent grant for used electric cars, so the price you see is the price you pay.
What paperwork should come with a used electric car?
You should get the V5C logbook, the service history, any battery health report and the battery warranty documents. Check the charging cables are included too. They're easy to forget, and replacements aren't cheap. If anything's missing, ask the seller before you sign.
YouGov study commissioned by Octopus EV in June 2026, covering attitudes to electric cars from 2,074 GB adult respondents.